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Keezer Part 3

In my last post about the my Keezer build I stained and finished the collar and also assembled it. Once that was completed I had to secure the collar to the freezer. To do this I used all purpose Liquid Nails. Once the Liquid Nails fully set (about 24 hours or so) I caulked all of the joints as you can see below.

Once the caulk dried I went ahead and drilled a few holes. The first set was to realign the hinges so that the lid could open and close normally. I made a paper template by holding a piece of paper up to the old holes on the freezer and poking holes through the paper with a pencil. Simple, but it worked. Remember I am doing this conversion with as few tools as possible. So far the only power tool required is a drill.

After I drilled the holes for the lid I drilled a hole for the temperature controller. The temperature controller is in charge of keeping the freezer from doing it’s job. The freezer can get down to 0 degrees on it’s lowest setting, I don’t want that to happen because I can’t drink or serve frozen beer. The two pictures below show the hole from the outside and inside of the keezer.

In my next update I will drill holes for the faucets/shanks and button the whole thing up.

Keezer Part 2

My keezer project is coming along nicely. I purchased the collar in order to raise the height of the lid on my chest freezer. By doing this I will increase the height of the chest freezer and give myself the height I need for an extra keg as well as a place to mount the taps. There are tons of ways to go about doing this, but living in an apartment gives limited power tool options.

I really only have a drill, so making this thing simple is very important. I made a trip to my local Lowe’s and picked up the required hardware. My chest freezer is a 5.0 cubic foot GE model. It measures 29”x22” and those were the dimensions that¬† I decided to make my collar as well. After some searching online I found that a typical Cornelius keg is 26” tall but you want to leave yourself some room for the connections and hoses. This means that I needed to give my collar a height of ~10” in order to have the room necessary for an additional keg.

One quick sidenote. The GE chest freezer will fit two kegs with no modifications, but the right side of the freezer has a “bump” in it for the compressor. This bump makes it necessary to add a collar to fit a third keg. You can see the bump in the right side of this image.

While at Lowe’s I found a long construction grade piece of lumber that measured 144”x12”x3/4”. This is perfect for what I needed and I found an associate to cut it down for me (free at Lowe’s) to get two boards at were 29” and two that were 19.5” since I needed to account for the board thickness. The other nice thing is that these boards cost in the neighborhood of $10. I also purchased some angle brackets, woods stain, polyurethane, and some sand paper. After all was said and done, it came in around $25.

Once I got home I sanded down the boards and applied the stain with a brush I already had. After two coats it was the color that I wanted. I gave the stain the required amount of time to sent and then I added four coats of poly, making sure to sand each one (but the last) with 200 grit sand paper. Doing this allows the layers of poly to bond properly with each other. I’ve had poly peal off by not doing this before.¬† I then screwed in the angle brackets to the outside and inside walls of the wood to make a sturdy box. I also used liquid nails to help hold them together. More coming in my next Keezer update.